Removing Bios Hardware Password and Boot Block on Acer Aspire 1360

28 07 2008

Sometimes laptops while still on factory settings have a default password that protects the BIOS and at times even the booting of the machine itself.

If ever in this situation you can send the hardware in one of the maintenance labs , and they will very nicely sort it out for you. The problem is that this costs 75-100 euros + time.

The protection actually is created by a hardware switch ( otherwise they could just tell you the pass right ).

Not too long ago i had to do something of than nature with and acer Aspire 1360.
Took a few pics in the process too , to document it better.

Step 1: On the left and on the right hand side of the laptop we have to remove two little plastic covers

which underneath , hide a screw each.

Step 2 : Unscrew both of them.

Step 3 : Push the LCD back. The Middle panel ( power button, wifi, etc ) needs to be carefully lifted on both sides.

Step 4 : the keyboard is next. For this you have to be even more careful

Step 5 : Now , underneath the keyboard we find the switches we were looking for.

Step 6 : You will find 4 horizontal switches. The 1st one says ‘Password Check’ and the 2nd one is for the Boot Block.

Flip the switch you need to, close, and reboot.

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46 responses

2 09 2008
boots

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2 09 2008
hardware

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4 10 2008
VDBorre William

Mercy – Dank u Thanks

20 12 2008
Japetus

You are great! Thank you

1 01 2009
Sidrit Trandafili

@Japetus
No worries, glad i could help

11 05 2009
Aspire 1360 bios frage! - Seite 2 - Acer-Userforum.de

[…] und er hat wieder ein funktionierendes Bios und bootet. Die Url wie man an die DIP Switches kommt: Removing Bios Hardware Password and Boot Block on Acer Aspire 1360 Sid? What is he on about now? Die Schalter sitzen unter der Tastatur. Daneben gibt es auch einen Schalter zum Zurcksetzen des […]

13 05 2009
cabs

Removing Bios Hardware Password Acer Aspire 9300

20 05 2009
Me

Hey there.
I tried to flash the new FW 1.15 on my Acer 1360 (Acer 1362 WLMi to be exactly) and after a successful BIOS-Flash under Windows 7 RC the computer went down correctly.

When I tried to restart it, there was a black screen remaining with a Beep-Code, that tells me, incorrect BIOS-Checksum.

Found severall possible steps, this one here included. My question is, if I have to switch the DIP-switches 1 and 2 to “on” or if they have to be deactivated.

When I opened the notebook like described (I had opened it once before reading this description anyway…) I found all switches in the left (suposed to be the “off”-Mode) position. Turning 1 and 2 on, didn´t make any change to my attempts of re-flashing a working BIOS-version.

Besides…what´s the deal with DIP-switches 3 and 4???

20 05 2009
Me

O.K., I´ve already found the solution on my own!!!

1 and 2 should be “on” and you must not release “Fn” and “Esc” only because of the 1 long and 2 short beeps, but when it starts to make a real noisy mess of short beep-signals! 😉

It takes about 3 minutes of ear-torture, to reach the end of the flash-procedure.

I reflashed the older version 1.14 (from American Support) successfully.
Besides I have read, that the 1.15-file is corrupted and the 1.14 shall be working fine.
It´s hard to find and hard to get (without any registration), but I found it here:

http://www.acerpanam.com/synapse/forms/portal20.cfm?website=AcerPanAm.com&siteid=7117&areaid=2&formid=3394#results

After a successful flash-procedure I had to turn of the nb, switch the DIP 2 back to “off”, start, enter the BIOS, save and restart. Turned it of again, switched DIP1 back to “off” too and now everything is working fine again under my sweet Windows 7 RC.

Thx for your advice considering the DIP-switches…I´d have tried to flash on an eternity. 😉

Last but not least an advice I figured out on my own:
My Acer Aspire 1362 WLMi has a nVidia GeForce Go FX 5200 integrated.
Flashing the UMAV144.WPH made the system boot, but left the screen black.
That´s why you have to take the EXTV144.WPH for nVidia graphic-adapters, rename it to BIOS.WPH and replace the file in the crisis-disk-folder before creating the crisis-boot-disk.
UMAV144.WPH seems to be for notebooks with S3-graphics, I suppose.

21 05 2009
Sidrit Trandafili

Hi Hey there-
saw both of ur posts at the same time.
glad you found a solution.

peace
sid

23 05 2009
Adrian

Did you use bootable USB floppy drive? or? I am writing about my problem of Acer Aspire…

26 05 2009
Sidrit Trandafili

@Adrian
nope, nothing bootable.
the solution is hardware-based.

25 05 2009
15 06 2009
Alexander

2 Me.
Thank you very much for your exercises description! I’ve just resolved EXACTLY the same problem with the same notebook (aspire 1363WLMi) upgrade from 1.06 to 1.15 BIOS with back to 1.14)

17 06 2009
Sidrit Trandafili

@ Alexander

Always glad to help-

17 06 2009
Me

@Alexander:

I’m glad if it helped you. 😉
Think Acer shouldn’t provide a corrupted BIOS-File like the 1.15 for download…if they even know about this problem!? ;:\

10 09 2009
sandrar

Hi! I was surfing and found your blog post… nice! I love your blog. 🙂 Cheers! Sandra. R.

12 09 2009
Sidrit Trandafili

cheers. 😀
i need to get back to wrinting, but i’m frankly too busy these days.

best regards
sid

29 09 2009
Stefan Polihronov

Hi,
I have the same problem – flashed the BIOS with 1.15 and everything went wrong. I followed the steps figured by “Me”, but I cannot find BIOS version 1.14 – the link from Acer american web site does not work. Can anyone send me the BIOS ver. 1.14 file to my mail? I found the DIP switches 1&2 and moved them to ON. I am waiting only for the BIOS.
Thank you in advance for your help.

Stefan Polihronov

21 10 2009
Me

Hi Stefan,

it’s “Me” again. 😉

I’d like to send you the BIOS version 1.14 but your E-Mail-Adress is not published, so I have no idea, where to send it to. 😉

As an alternative I could offer you the download of other working BIOS-version you can find here:
ftp://ftp.work.acer-euro.com/notebook/aspire_1360/bios/AS1360/

Version 1.11 should be a good one too.

I can’t be sure, if THIS really is, what it seems to be, BUT I found this link in a forum and downloaded the file…seems to be the 1.14:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=CVRYME1S

I have checked the US-Server again, Stefan is right, the 1.14 has been removed. 😦
Hope the link I’ve found lasts a while and is the correct file. 😉

27 10 2009
uktrucker

alas none of you help worked thnx i’m still pulling my hair out unfortunatly not a lot left think i’ll just throw the danm thing away, its an acer aspire 1360 and its brain dead it starts up but nothing after that the little book on the front does nothingi’ve usbed it to my new comp but it dont even recognise it ,

19 11 2009
wanderer

I seem to have exactly the same problem as Me and others: The BIOS flash (from v 1.11) to 1.15 on my Aspire 3.63 WMLi seem to run perfect, but after reboot I got a black screen with one long and two short beeps.

I tried to follow Me’s advice: opened up the computer, set switch 1 en 2 to “on” and repowered holding the and . Nothing seems to change except that it repeats the long and two short beeps. I’ve been trying to hold it for over 5 minutes, but no difference. What am I doing wrong?

Also I would love to use v 1.14 (is the one at megaupload correct?), but I suppose I can live with v. 1.11

19 11 2009
wanderer

hmm i meant the Esc and the Fn key in the above… hold together at the same time.

22 11 2009
bios_grabber

I had the same problem: After switching number 2 to “on”, the PC didn’t even try to access the floppy drive anymore.
A comment in this thread helped me:
http://www.wimsbios.com/forum/topic9965.html

I also upgraded my RAM, from originally 2x256MB to 2x512MB.
After changing the RAM back to original state, it suddenly worked.

BTW: I found the BIOS 1.14 here:
http://www.driversdown.com/drivers/ACER-Aspire-1360-Notebook-Flash-BIOS-v1.14-WindowsXP_68752.shtml

25 11 2009
don

Hi i have an acer travelmate 6592g and for some reason when i switch the laptop on it asks for a password before anything can even boot. Could it be related to the samething you were refering to here about bootblock??? please let me know.

Thanks
Don

23 12 2009
love acer

Acer AOD250-1197 10.1-Inch Blue Netbook
great netbook, substandard os
The computer itself is great. I love that its compact and has plenty of battery life. The touchpad is the least annoying of any laptop I’ve ever used. The windows 7 starter operating system, however is not. its a highly abbreviated version created for emerging markets in third world countries. There’s so much lacking. you cant even put up a picture on the desktop background. Save your money and buy the XP version. I wish I did.

24 12 2009
Me

@don:
The thing u described sounds like someone or sth. has set a Password in the BIOS and not only for BIOS-access but also for general access.
If you had a PC, I’d say clear the BIOS by using the CMOS/BIOS-Clear Jumper on the mainboard, considering a Laptop it’s the same but more difficult.

Depending on brand and model the places where you can find such jumpers (e.g. in case of the Acer Aspire 1362 WLMi it’s a DIP-Switch unterneath the keyboard as shown on Sid’s photos at the top of the blog, while an FSC Xa-2528 has such an DIP-Switch beneath the southbridge hidden under the service-cover of the bottom side).
So you have to find out, where your model has this switch and you should be one step closer to a satisfying solution.

@love acer:
What the hell does your post have to do with the current topic??? 😉

24 12 2009
Me

Depending on brand and model the places where you can find such jumpers
may vary…sorry I forgot to write, already had written it in my mind. 😀

29 12 2009
Janette scharenborg

I have exactly the same problem on the same laptop, I have done the things here mentioned, but the computer still gives 1 long and 2 short beeps, this probleem happened after updating the bios!!!! what else can I try?????

20 02 2010
Samantha

Nice blog, i like it, its informative,
i will visit his blog more often.
i like your article specially about
Removing Bios Hardware Password and Boot Block on Acer Aspire 1360

Cheers

1 05 2010
Tim

Old 1362 here and getting fed up of it overheating a lot by whacking the CPU into overdrive at the slightest hint of having to do some work, so thought I’d try a bios update. Of course the 1.15 version is still up there and sure enough it’s still corrupt, so I’ve got the dreaded bios beeps now.

Question is, can you create a boot disc to revert to 1.11 or 1.14 on CD or maybe via a USB stick and/or USB hard disc? I don’t have a USB floppy drive and don’t intend to spend any money on one.

25 05 2010
Me

Hi Tim.

your former overheating problem sounds more like your cooler simply is full of dust…so BIOS-Update wouldn’t have been a solution anyway. :/
The thing about that ist the structure of the cooling-system…it resembles to the one on an ATI X800 GTO²-vga-card.

You should be able to create a stick on your own, I think…there are enough freeware-tools to do so and for extracting an non-corrupted BIOS-Version you can use Universal Extractor e.g. (http://legroom.net/software/uniextract), which also is freeware.

USB-Floppy-drives don’t cost much and really pay off…or let’s say, it did for me. 😉

26 05 2010
Drazen

Hello,
I have a Acer Aspire 1600 laptop and I flashed BIOS from windows and after restart i got black screen. I tried to find bootblock on motherboard on my laptop but without success. Can anyone help me to find it

15 07 2010
Me

Drazen, you can’t be serious!

I know for sure, that ALL MAINBOARDS/MOTHERBOARDS from the Acer Aspire 1360- and 1520-series are equal in structure and only can differ in necessary voltage (yellow or orange input), used network-components and graphic-components (bound to that there are special heatpads and a -spreader or not, just in case which graphic-solution is used).
So if you REALLY did, what SID has described in step 1 to 6, then you’ll HAVE to see it.

LOOK:
Enlarge the picture above the description of “Step 6”, SID has marked the important area with a red circle.
Within this red circle you’ll find a coolin-fan-connector and exactly left of it the DIP-switches (1 black bar and 4 white DIP-switches within) are located.

So man, what’s so hard to find there?????????? Shall he make a video of it for true DAUs?
Damn…I’ve repaired 2 Notebooks of the 1360-series so far and finding the DIP-switches definitely was the easiest thing about that. 😉
You don’t want to put the whole notebook into parts to replace the mainboard…believe me. 😀
And I bet, you wouldn’t even know, where to start on series like the 5710Z. :p

So please do us a favour, read and try to make it the same way or leave it, but stop senseless spamming, we can’t do it for you, and if u wished to, you’d have to send it to us…and I doubt in you, trusting strangers to send it back. :/ 😉

17 11 2010
Max

Hi, just wanted to let others that are having same problems. This happened to me (Aspire 1362) and this post was critical in solving the problem. After buying a cheap usb flash drive and trying to use a ‘crysis’ disk made with a link to an aspire 5050 I finally found another version which worked perfectly in creating a good disk. So I would recommend-it worked for me, to get hold of ‘wincris 1.0.0.4’-there is a link on this page http://forum.ts.fujitsu.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=40700.
Run Wincris and be sure to obtain version 1.11 of bios-for the correct graphics card-rename it to BIOS.WPH and copy it to the same directory where Wincris.exe is (that’s default project directory). Wincris will do the rest -defaults selected are correct (create minidos disk) and copies this file and make a bootable disk if disk is okay. I bought one floppy which seemed a bit ‘iffy’. My internal floppy drive did read and write to it without problems but sometimes the cheap usb drive refused to and said the disk needed formatting. In the end somehow Wincris managed to create a boot disk on the usb drive without problems or read errors.
Tested with one 256 Mb, and no battery connected-don’t know if this matters. My other attempt at creating a boot disk resulted in drive being accessed for no more than a few seconds. I couldn’t understand as I had created a boot disk with another crysis program. Computer always booted with one beep but no screen output. Booting as informed here -with the switches-did the trick, as soon as constant beep was heard I released the buttons. After some time-maybe as author said 3 minutes-it stopped making noises so I shut it down and followed his other instructions-switch 2 back to off and then later switch 1.
Many thanks to the author, you made this easier and save me the cost of a new motherboard or giving it away. 🙂

22 11 2010
Al

Drazen:
On Acer 1600 motherboards there is a connector (CN27) for RTC, PWD and Boot Block.
Shorting pins 5 and 6 (if I remember well) will activate boot block. You need Crisis recovery disk from Phoenix to build a diskette, and probably a “Fn+Esc” key combination. Someones reported “Fn+F2” … Google for “Phoenix bios boot block”, and for “Toucan2/3 boot block” to obtain a service manual for your aspire.

Regards.

12 10 2011
Jam

Hi there

I forgot my password to laptop (acer aspire 1360) and ive seen the switch for checkpassword but i dnt know what to do with the switch.

Any heeellp thnx

Jam

6 12 2011
e5frog

Hi guys.

I made the same mistake, found the 1.15 on Acer homepage which was newer than everything else, had 1.09. Same long beep two short. I have a 1362WLMi like one of you above.

Have made a disk, have USB diskdrive, replaced the BIOS-file on the disk, dip switches set 1,2 ON and left 3,4 OFF as they were from the beginning. Holding Fn and Esc and adding the power leaves me with no reaction other than the fan start spinning and some leds turn on. No beeps at all no matter if I hold any keys or not when the dip switches are in on position. No reaction on the USB drive. Even after sitting there holding for 30s there’s still nothing.

I get an initial read on the USB drive if I have all dip switches off but only for a few seconds, from about 4 to 13 seconds from power turned on. The beeping comes in between that time.

Does it matter which of the four USB ports on the back is used?
I also wonder if my Swedish keyboard is supposed to use some other key with Fn, not that Esc differs if I have Windows set to English instead of Swedish…

Will google while hoping for reply.

6 12 2011
e5frog

Found the problem, had to remove the 2x 1GB ram I had swapped for and reinsert the two 256 MB rams instead – then it started as per instructions.

However, there’s a LOT of beeping, at highest volume, if you’re planning to do this at 4PM with the rest of the family sleeping upstairs you may consider waiting (!) until daylight or disconnect the speakers…

My drive stopped after about 20 seconds, I assume it wasn’t done and I hope I’ll be able to make a new attempt tomorrow or I guess I need to locate the chip and program it manually – if possible.

6 12 2011
e5frog

Got it!

After the beeping started at the higher frequency the USB disk drive chewed the disk for almost 30 seconds, slight pause in beeping before it started again and after less than than 2 minutes the beeping stops and I put both dip switches to off again and could start the computer as usual but with the 1.14 bios.

Luckily I still had the original 256MB memory modules!

Thanks guys (and I’ve learned a second time that I should check what is necessary to repair the bios before attempting to upgrade).

6 12 2011
e5frog

I understand my previous post is a bit unclear in some aspects, can’t edit it but feel free to replace it with this instead:

Got it!

After the beeping started at a slightly higher frequency maybe 8-10 seconds after initial disk read the USB disk drive chewed the disk for almost 30 seconds then stopped, slight pause in beeping before it started beeping again with no disk access and after less than than 2 minutes the beeping stops completely and I turned the power off, changed both dip switches to off again and could start the computer as usual but now with the 1.14 bios. No changes in the bios menu options though, not sure if it was really necessary to upgrade from 1.09 but at least I have the latests working bios.

Still mad that that Acer has a 1.15 that doesn’t work, the single file (AFUWIN) included in the download has version EXTV115 which seems to be the next version after the EXTV114.WPH used for the 1.14 upgrade.

Luckily I still had the original 256MB memory modules! Perhaps bios flashing should be done in the middle of the day and after reading through a few threads about unsuccessful flashing..

Thanks a lot guys (and I’ve learned a second time that I should check what is necessary to repair the bios before attempting to upgrade)!

12 12 2011
Welshyx

Thanks for this guide, I work in a small PC repair shop and needed to get into the BIOS to change the boot order, tried deleting the data off the hard disk but could not force the laptop to boot from CD…

Everythings working perfectly now A*

16 12 2011
Nick

Grazie 1000!!!

7 03 2012
Gatto

Hello,
i found an inusual problem with my Acer Aspire 1362. I’ve replaced the old 20G hdd (that had given some problems) with a new 60G hdd Toshiba MK6025GAS.
Well, it’s quite strange but BIOS (1.14) doesn’t find the hdd but windows installation cd does, when i try to boot from cd! I’ve tried to format the new disk but nothing happens.
I hope someone can help me

24 08 2012
Waleed

Great Work.

24 03 2013
GrPetros

Guys, I am lost here. I ve done the mistake of flashing with 1.15 an Acer Aspire 1363WLMi with an NVIDIA GeForce graphics card and u all know what I got. Anyhow I am trying to follow the procedure (even installed its original Dimms) and I can’t get somewhere. I feel sooo stupid. What I’ve done so far:
1. Switched 1 & 2 to ON
2. Removed HDD (Didn’t want to risk the data with so many tries) and CD-ROM (of no significance, just did it)
3. Removed the battery. I don’t have it installed at all.
4. Prepared a floppy containing: bios.wph (renamed the EXTV111.wph), minidos.sys, phlash16.exe)
5. Prepared 2 USB Flash drives with WinCris.exe (a 128MB Transcend and a 4GB Kingston) containing the same files as the Floppy
6. When doing the procedure using the USB-Floppy drive, I get a beep one small read, then nothing. After a while, a small read and that is it. No high noises no nothing.
7. When trying to use the USB flash drive I get really high noises (1long – 2 shorts) repeating indefinitely. I realized that I get this behavior even if nothing is plugged-in.

So, what do you think? I am just that close to ask for psychological help…

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